
Class^ LBlSAi 

Book . .Kafc_. 

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COPYRrGHT DEPOSIT. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



WALTER J. KENYON 

State Normal School, San Francisco, Cal. 



NEW YORK 
THE BAKER & TAYLOR CO. 

33-37 East Seventeenth Street, Union Square, North 



Copyright, 1899 and 1901, 

BY 

WALTER J. KENYON. 






RV OFl 

ECEIVEDl 

901 



[THE LIBRARY 
CON CRESS, 
Two Copies Received 

MAY. 2 1901 

Copyright entry 

DLASSoVoOCc N* 

COPY 8. 









ROBERT DRUMMOM), PRINTER, NEW YORK. 



FOREWORD 



At the present time the United States leads the world in 
the excellence of its system of public education. Amoncr its 
prominent features is the training- in handwork, begun in the 
kindergarten and continued throughout the common-school 
years, whence it passes without break into the manual training 
high schools and special technical institutions. 

Of the several periods marking this manual training course 
the weakest is found in the primary school, dealing with pupils 
of from seven to eleven or twelve years of age. These 
children have outgrown the employment of the kindergarten 
and receiving class, but have yet to attain the growth qualify- 
ing them for the forms of handicraft common in the grammar 
grades. With a view to partially bridging this hiatus with the 
help of my many years of intimate acquaintance with children, 
I have devised these exercises. 

The writer is mindful of the later evidence of psychology. 
In the order of nervous and muscular development the large 
movements of trunk and limbs come under control before 
those more specialized o^ the digits and the eye. There is 



vi FOREWORD 

therefore some doubt to be expressed as to the age at which 
the child may profitably enter these employments which call 
for a somewhat definite manipulation of ruler, pencil, and 
scissors. I am quite content, however, to let the empirical 
psychology of each teacher decide this question in her own 
work. If the children of any certain grade exhibit at once a 
joy and an aptitude in the pursuance of these activities we 
have a modicum of evidence as to their usefulness. I should 
not hesitate to introduce the work to a second-year class, pro- 
vided its members had received the kindergarten training or 
its equivalent. 

On the other hand the exercises are not ill-adapted for 
pupils of upper grades, even the seventh and eighth, where of 
course a greater accuracy of performance is to be exacted. 

It is believed that many parents, realizing the value of 
constructive plays, will find the ensuing pages full of sugges- 
tion for rainy days in the nursery. It is indeed partly in 
response to appeals from outside the school circles that this 
little handbook is offered. 

W. J. K. 

San Francisco, April, 1901. 



CONTENTS 



TAGE 

Foreword v 

What the Title Covers 9 

The Materials 12 

The Tools 14 

The Lessons 15 

The Models 17 

1. Bound Book No. 1 17 

2. Tag 18 

3. Thread-Winder No. 1 19 

4. Seamless Tray 20 

5. Circle-Maker 21 

6. Thread-Winder No. 2 22 

7. Thread-Winder No. 3 22 

About Dictatio7is 24 

8. Match-Strike 26 

9. Corner Book-Mark 30 

10. Oblong Pin-Tray 31 

1 1 . Tripod Book-Mark 32 

1 2. Label-Envelope 33 

13. Stand Calendar 34 

14. Portfolio No. 1 37 

1 5. Scrolled Picture-Frame 39 

16. Woven Tray , 43 

17. Letter-Envelope 45 

18. Square Tray, Bound 45 

19. Round-Lipped Tray 48 

20. Laced Tray 50 



viii CONTENTS 



PAGE 

2 1 . Tri-Tray 51 

22. Button-Basket 53 

23. Needie-Book 55 

24. Scrolled Pin-Tray 58 

25. Scrolled Match-Receiver 60 

26. Bound Book No. 1 62 

27. Button-Box, Ornate 64 

28. Portrait-Calendar 66 

Working Drawings , 69 

29. Lip and Lace-Tray 71 

30. Hexagonal Tray, Lipped 72, 

31. Burnt-Match Receiver , 76 

32. Tri-Cup, Mounted 78 

33. Half Oblique Button-Box 79 

34. Hexagonal Tray, Full Finish 81 

35. Oblique Match-Stand 83 

36. Cubical Box 85 

37. Oblique Tray, Bound 87 

t,S. Hexagonal Catch-all 89 

39. Hair-Pin Stand 91 

40. Bound Book No. 2... 91 

41. Drop-Edged Catch-all 96 

42. Sunflower Catch-all 98 

43. Oblong Box and Lid 100 

44. Octagonal Oblique Tray 103 

45. Match-Pocket 106 

46. Pencil-Vase.-. . 108 

47. Pendant Match-Safe 1 1 1 

48. Lotus Tray 114 

49. Square Vase ... 117 

50. Full-Bound Portfolio 121 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



WHAT THE TITLE COVERS 

LAST spring the writer stood before a big table full of odd 
little knick-knacks. They were all pretty in color and con- 
tour. They differed from the kindergarten devices in that 
they carried suggestions of durability and actual intrinsic value. 
The usual baby-ribbon and thin paper were displaced by mate- 
rials at once less frail and more aesthetic. The ensemble 
had a more businesslike appearance. There was more variety 
of material, too. A tough, beautiful cardboard, not hereto- 
fore seen in school handicraft, occupied a large place. Leath- 
erette was conspicuous, with now and then a glimpse of real 
leather. Here and there a morsel of wickerwork, such as a 
reed napkin-ring, showed itself. The question was asked, 
14 What tools were used in making these things ? " and the an- 
swer was given, " Hardly any, save pencil, ruler, and shears." 
The writer pushed the discussion as to why primary teachers 
hadn't gotten hold of this line of work. A variety of reasons 
were uncovered. 

To begin with, the uninitiated pedagogue is easily scared 
by the term "manual training." It calls up harrowing 

9 



io FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

'* auditory images " of clanging hammers and rasping saws — 
things wholly impossible to the situation in hand. The first 
thing to be done, apparently, in shaping this work for print, 
was to cast about for some seductive caption which would win, 
at the very least, an unprejudiced reading from our clientele. 
We have said "Handicraft," because we do not mean either 
" sloyd " or "manual training," as they are commonly con- 
ceived, but something nearer the primary teacher's aspirations, 
nearer the children's ability, and nearer the possibilities of 
the primary schoolroom as it exists. 

The second pitfall to be avoided was that excess of system 
which, pervading the later educational movements, has filled 
the green earth with rampant bugaboos for the already hard- 
pressed grade teacher. The course here presented, while 
observing a general progression ' ' from the easy to the more 
difficult, ' ' avoids that rigid and finical insistence upon detail 
which has heretofore overawed the novice. For example, 
while it is as well to utilize the exercises about in the order 
given, the starry heavens will still remain unshattered if the 
teacher finds it convenient to induct Model 4 before Model 3. 

A number of teachers have, now and again, made little 
explorations into this field of primary handicraft. Of these 
ventures little has come to light. The fault has lain, not so 
much in a dearth of inventive genius, as in a lack of persist- 
ence in seeking the raw material. For example, most experi- 
ments have struck aground on "tag-stock." Every one 
knows that tag-stock offers no inducements as to color, and 



FIRST YEARS' IN HANDICRAFT u 

worse, is miserably brittle. No one seems to have found out, 
however, that there are to be had many varieties of papers 
and boards as tough as leather, as beautiful in color and tex- 
ture as an artist could dream them, and altogether satisfactory 
for our purpose. 

Price is another question that has not been properly 
opened up. I find my fellow experimenters paying ten cents 
a sheet for cardboard when by a little rummaging in the 
wholesale districts they can have a wholly satisfactory board 
at from a cent and a half to two cents and a half a sheet 
(22 X 28). Now dividing the cost of things by four is worth 
while; and it can be done, approximately, in most of the 
items, if you can evade your " Public Service Bureau " (!) and 
look these matters up for yourself. 

One point remains — the nature of the models. Most of 
the "elementary" things published, whether on differential 
calculus or roller skating, are not elementary at all. They 
embody every twist the author knows in his subject. For 
example, see the Leipzig work in cardboard. It is far more 
difficult than a course in cabinet joinery. But the models 
hereafter described are really elementary. They are things 
little folks can make — if the little folks begin at the beginning. 
Finally, they are real, intrinsic tilings, every one, to take 
home and use, or to use in school. 



THE MATERIALS 

Thirty children can each make the fifty models (30 X 50 
= 1500 models) with the material here named. The first 
thirty models average about one-fourth of a cent apiece in 
cost. The remaining twenty use more material, including 
leatherette, and bring the cost up to about a cent apiece 
throughout the series. 

"Cover-papers" are exceedingly tough and beautifully 
colored, surpassing in both respects the various Manillas, 
bristols, etc., heretofore used in primary manual training. 
Cover-paper in the 120-lb. weight is heavy enough for the 
work in hand ; and the 50-lb. weight is just right for facing 
and edging. Thus exquisite color harmonies may be secured 
by selecting adjacent color tones for edging and surfaces. 

Ask your dealer for one of those beautifully gotten-up 
sample-books of cover-paper, either the "Herculean," or the 
"Princess," or the "Royal Melton." There are others. 
You can then select colors at your leisure. The crude, garish 
tints of the ordinary "tough check," etc., will here be found 
agreeably missing ; and in their stead ' ' Cadet blue, " " Havana 
brown," "Lincoln green," and many others as pleasing as 
their names. A two-piece model made up of Lincoln and 
Shamrock greens, or Cadet and Columbia blues is a combina- 
tion not to be despised by the most exacting colorist. 

12 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 13 

1 Quire of 30-lb. Manilla, 30 X 40 (or its equivalent, 

cut up), say. . m $ . 30 

1 Quire of 60-lb. ditto 40 

100 Sheets (22 X 28) 120-lb. cover 2.40 

25 " " " 50-lb. " .... 35 

5 " " lt gray " Velour " cover " ;: " 10 

15 " binders' board, 70-lb. or lighter 25 

2 Quires " heavy wrapping, " 30 X 40. 70 

30 Sheets 22 X 28 lithographed book-paper 60 

1 Sq. yd. book-cloth 25 

1 Sheet thin bristol-board, 14 X 22 . .05 

30 Calendar pads, I }4 X 2 % 30 

30 " " 2 X 2> J A s 40 

24 Sq. yds. leatherette 6.00 

3 ' 4 " light muslin or cambric 21 

90 Yds. baby-ribbon 1.35 

50 " gray tape, half-inch 50 

40 " black " " 4< 40 

1 Ball druggists' cotton twine 05 

2 Hanks Barbour's gloss thread 05 

1 Spool heavy white or gray thread 10 

3 Doz. Perry pictures 36 

6 Sheets No. 1 sandpaper 10 

1 Pt. Le Page's glue 45 

2 Lbs. flour, for paste 10 



* For Model 15. 



THE TOOLS 

i Doz. scissors (Heinisch 6%-mch straight trimmers, 

half nickeled) $4-00 

6 Knitting-needles * 3° 

1 Paper of darning-needles e . -05 

2 Ticket-punches 5° 

1 Doz. White's drawing-compasses 1.20 

Ruler, each child bring his own. 
Pencil, " 



*The knitting-needles are for "scoring." They should be broken in 
two and the broken ends thrust into roughly whittled wooden handles, 
making twelve scoring-points. 

14 



THE LESSONS 

It is thought best not to take space here with formal direc- 
tions as to the management of the lesson. Each teacher will 
control details after her own habit. 

Of course the teacher will make each model herself before 
trying it with the children. Better try a small group at first, 
giving individual attention. After making three or four 
models the children will have become self-reliant, when they 
may be worked in larger numbers and with less supervision. 

It is a good plan to draw the model — the working draw- 
ing — on the blackboard, before the lesson. Teach the 
children to refer to these drawings. They very soon learn to 
do so, thus mastering a valuable knowledge and immensely 
lessening the teacher's further labors. One correspondent 
writes me that she has drawn the diagrams much enlarged, on 
sheets of stout Manilla paper. She finds that this permanent 
form pays well for the trouble of making. 

Of course the teacher will attend to vocabulary. When 
the class must learn to draw lines at right angles, give the 

i5 



16 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

term riglit angle. Teach them to draw it (approximately) 
around the end of the ruler. In using the awl for scor- 
ing, teach class to dent the paper — not "cut it part way 
through. " 

In referring to measurements the mark " are used to 
indicate inches. 



THE MODELS 



Model 1 

BOUND BOOK NO. 1 

Take four sheets of any writing-paper, about j" square. 
Cut a square of 70-lb. cover-paper, Y\" larger, each way, than 




the other sheets. Fold each of these sheets along one 01 ics 
diameters. Place these folded sheets one within the next, 

17 



18 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

forming a book of eight leaves and cover. Sew, as shown in 
Fig. I, with strong thread. 

This book may be used by the pupil, in connection with 
his language and number, or he may take it home. Its 
appearance is improved by smoothing with a hot iron, or 
pressing under a geography. 



Model 2 
TAG 
On bristol-board or heavy Manilla, draw a rectangle 3" X 



13/ 



Cut this into three parts, each, \" X 



These will 



make three tags as shown in Fig. 2. Clip two corners free 







<— r — ^ 

hand, as shown. Punch the hole with ticket-punch. Take 
12" of string— pretty pink string such as the druggist uses. 
Double it. Push the loop through the hole. Pass the ends 
through the loop and pull taut. Knot the loose ends. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT , 9 

These labels are useful in marking various bits of school 
material. 



Model 3 

THREAD-WINDER NO. 1 

Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 

Draw the rectangle shown in Fig. 3. Place the points 
indicated, respectively y A " and j£" from corners. 




F/g. 3. 

Connect these by the slant lines. 

Cut out on the heavy lines shown. 

This thread-winder is useful for the busy-work worsteds, 



etc. 



20 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 4 

SEAMLESS TRAY 

Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 

Draw the rectangle, Fig. 4. On each line place dots y 2 " 




from each end. With these dots as guides, draw the inner 
rectangle. Connect the rectangles at their corners. With a 
dull knitting-needle, or awl, score all the light lines. In 
scoring a line bruise the paper without cutting it. Use the 
ruler to guide the awl. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 21 

Cut out the drawing on heavy lines. Fold on the scored 
lines, first at the corners, then at the base-lines ; then at the 
corners again, until the card assumes a tray shape as in 
Fig- 5- 




%. s. 



Model 5 

CIRCLE-MAKER 
Material: 70-lb. binders' board. 
Draw the rectangle shown in Fig. 6. Draw its midline, 

— i" 



Fig *• 

On this midline mark oft' inches and half-inches. At the first 
half-inch mark bore a hole with a small brad-awl. 

This model is useful in drawing circles, when no com- 
passes can be afforded. 

The little hole bored is to receive the pencil point. At 
any of the other marks, a pin is to be thrust through the card, 
impaling it. Thus the pin will act as a pivot, at the centre of 
the circle to be drawn. 



22 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 6 

THREAD-WINDER NO. 2 

Material : i 20-lb. cover-paper. 

With the circle-maker (Model 5) draw a 3" circle. Draw- 
its diameter. Using the respective ends of this diameter as 




r;g.7. 

centres, draw the arcs shown in Fig. 7. Cut out on heavy 
lines. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



23 



Model 7 

THREAD-WINDER NO. 3 

Material : 1 20-lb. cover-paper. 

Draw two equilateral triangles on the same base. Sides 
2" '. This gives the rhombus shown in Fig. 8. 

On each edge of this rhombus, set off a point y x " 
from the acute vertex; another %" from the obtuse vertex. 




For convenience call these respectively Y x " points and ]A" 
points. 

Connect each pair of #" points with the opposite vertex. 
Connect each pair of %" points with the opposite vertex. 

Darken the lines as shown. Cut out on dark lines. 



ABOUT DICTATIONS 

No two teachers ever present the same material in the 
same way. Under favorable class-room conditions as to 
number of pupils, grouping, etc., it is profitable to teach this 
cardboard work by dictation. To be sure, dictation means 
class, not individual teaching; but it has certain indisputable 
values. Suppose the teacher says, in beginning the drawing, 
" Find the upper left-hand corner." What have we ? First, 
a language lesson; a mental act, on the pupil's part, in 
associating the terms upper, left, with the corresponding 
ideas. Next a motor activity, expressing that association and 
completing the psychic movement. Incidentally, an act of 
intense attention (to the teacher's words), having the value of 
a physical-culture command, or of military practice. This 
latter, provided the child be required to hear the direction first 
time. 

It is well to note here the especial value of dictations for 
eye-minded children — those who habitually receive their im- 
pressions by the eye, the ear -being less than normally recep- 
tive although not in any degree deaf. Auditory exercises, 

24 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 25 

requiring- responsive activity, are the remedy; and dictations 
of manual training are of this sort. Conversely, those children 
whom you discover to be ear-minded require less auditory and 
more visual training. For such, the dictation may be written; 
and by continual reference to blackboard drawings, a reading 
knowledge of working drawing may soon be given, after which 
the ear-minded pupil may look almost wholly to the black- 
board for his direction. Facility will probably lead the 
teacher to adopt this as her prevailing plan. That is, to use 
dictations and blackboard drawings together, referring the 
class more and more to the blackboard drawings until the 
cardboard construction assumes, in the main, the character of 
busy- work. 

A dictation is given for Model 8 which is intended as a 
suggestive example for other models. To economize space in 
these pages the dictations will ordinarily be omitted. 



26 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 8 



MATCH-STRIKE 
Material: For beginners, a heavy cover-paper is best. It 
should be brown, buff, or gray-green— darker than sandpaper 
and harmonizing with it. Pupils of more ability may cover 
heavy wrapping with leatherette, in pieces large enough to 
receive the working drawing (Fig. 9). 

Z'/z" •> 






-A5- 





\ / 






L_ 


Sandpaper, : 
I'M'/z. \ 






.../ \ 





F* 9. 

Also sandpaper, either No. o or No. 1. One sheet of 
sandpaper, closely cut, is enough for twenty-four pupils. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 27 

Dictation 

Place your paper with the short edges extending right and 
left. Find the upper left corner. Place a dot a fourth inch 
below it. A fourth inch to the right of this dot place another. 

Beginning with this second dot, draw a line 2}^" long, 
extending toward the right. 

From the left end of this line drop a perpendicular* 4" 
long, extending toward the lower edge of the paper. From 
the right end drop a similar ■* line. How far apart should 
they be at their lower ends ? Test them and correct if neces- 
sary. 

Draw a line connecting the lower ends of the two just 
drawn. 

(Teach terms right angle and rectangle.) 

How wide is your rectangle ? How long ? 

Find the upper left corner. Half an inch to the right 
place a dot. On which line ? Find the other end of this line. 
Place a dot half an inch to the left. 

On the lower line place two dots similarly. 

Find the upper left corner again. Three-fourths of an inch 
below place a dot. On which line ? Find the lower end. 
Three-fourths of an inch above place a dot. 

* Teach new words as a necessity for their use is encountered, without 
regard to age or grade of the pupil, or length of the word. Select common 
terms if they are correct. 

The side and end of a ruler are at right angles. Hence if the end of 
the ruler is laid to coincide with the first line drawn, a second, drawn 
along the ruler's edge, will be at right angles or perpendicular. 



28 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

On the right line place two dots similarly. 

Find the upper dot on the left line. Find the lower dot 
on the right line. Draw a line connecting them. 

Find the remaining two dots on these side-lines. Connect 
them. 

Find the left dot on the upper line. Find the right dot on 
the lower line. Connect. 

Connect the two dots remaining. 

Find the upper left corner again. Place a dot a fourth 
inch to the right. On which line ? Another a fourth inch 
below the same corner. On which line ? 

Similarly, place pairs of dots a fourth inch from each of the 
other corners. 

Find upper left corner. Find dot a fourth inch below. 
Find upper right corner. Find dot a fourth inch below. 
Connect these dots. 

This line is parallel* with the upper edge of your rect- 
angle. Similarly draw a parallel a fourth inch within the 
lower edge. 

Similarly, a parallel a fourth inch within the left edge. 
Another within the right edge. 

Once more, find upper left corner. Darken the first half 

* Teach new words as a necessity for their use is encountered, without 
regard to age or grade of the pupil, or length of the word. Select common 
terms if they are correct. 

The side and end of a ruler are at right angles. Hence if the end of 
the ruler is laid to coincide with the first line drawn, a second, drawn 
along the ruler's edge, will be at right angles or perpendicular. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 29 

inch of upper edge. The first three-fourths inch of the left 
edge. Darken similar spaces at the other corners. 

How large is the first rectangle you drew ? Find the next 
in size. Call it the inner rectangle. 

Trace around the inner rectangle with your finger. 

Find the left edge of this inner rectangle. Find two 
points where slant lines cross it. Place a dot at each of these 
points. 

Darken the line between these two dots. 

Darken the similar parts in the other three sides of inner 
rectangle. 

Notice how the inner and outer rectangles are connected 
by slant lines. Darken all the slant lines between the rect- 
angles. 

Cut the figure out on heavy lines. 

Now take your sandpaper. Lay it sand-side down. 
Draw upon the smooth side a rectangle \%" X 2]/?" . Cut 
this out.* 

Lay the sandpaper on the centre of the back piece so that 
opposite margins will be equal. Judge, this time, instead of 
measuring. Trace a faint pencil mark around the sandpaper, 
on the back piece. 

Now spread the glue, very thinly, on back of sandpaper. 
Press the sandpaper in position. Press the work in a book. 



* It is a good plan to set aside an old pair of shears for sandpaper 
cutting. This saves the better ones. 



30 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



When it is dry we will punch two holes with the ticket-punch, 
similar to those in the match-strike. 



Model 9 

CORNER BOOK-MARK 

Material: 70-lb. cover-paper. 

Draw the left half of Fig. 10; that is, the half composed 




■9 






: r/g. 10. 



of solid lines. Gne of these lines is a 4" perpendicular, is it 
not ? Fold paper on this line and cut the pattern out. 
Observe that two thicknesses of paper will be cut at once. 

Unfold the paper and you have the entire pattern shown in 
Fig. 10, plus a lap at the top of right half. Cut this lap off; 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



3i 



then only the left half will have a lap. Score the light line 
with dull awl. Fold the lap down, and fold the halves 
together, with pencil marks inside. Glue the lap over the 
edge of other half. The book-mark is improved by pressing. 
This book-mark may be appropriately decorated in water- 
colors if desired. 



Model 10 

OBLONG PIN-TRAY 
Material : 1 20-lb. cover-paper. 
Draw Fig. 11. Cut out on heavy lines. Score the light 

* - 5 > 



\ 




/ 


•A« 






/ 




\ 



lines with the awl. Fold the box, including laps, into shape. 
Glue the laps inside the adjacent sides. Glue one at a time 



32 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



and hold until secure. Use glue very sparingly— a mere 
garnish, applied with a tooth-pick. Most of the mussy work 
done by pupils will be avoided if they are taught to use less 
glue. 

Model 11 

TRIPOD BOOK-MARK 
Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 

Draw Fig. 12. The two little circles need not be drawn. 
They are to be punched out with the ticket-punch. 




Punch the holes; then cut out figure, on heavy lines. 
This finishes the tripod book-mark. In use, the three legs 
bestride a few pages of the book, the centre leg on one side, 



the long legs on the other. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



33 



Model 12 

LABEL-ENVELOPE 
Material: Light Manilla, 40-, 50-, or 60-lb. 
Draw Fig. 13. If the children are not able to work 



in 




{*->* 



/&". — i 



I 



Fi& A3. 






34 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

quarter and eighth inches, the little triangular cuttings may be 
made freehand, after the teacher's inspection. 

The curved flap may be drawn with the circle-maker 
(Model 5), or with compasses mentioned in tool-list. 

Score the light lines and fold up. Use either paste or 
glue. The \" flap goes over the i%" flap, bringing the joint 
line down the centre. The bottom flap is pasted down next. 
The curved flap is not pasted. 

The label-envelope is used in many ways about the school 
and with variations may be profitably made in any grade. 

Model 13 

STAND CALENDAR 

Material: (1) Heavy wrapping, or any cardboard not too 
stiff to be easily cut. (2) Leatherette. (3) A scrap of thin 
Manilla, such as used in Model 12. (4) For the leg, a bit of 
70-lb. binders' board, or other heavy board. (5) A small 
calendar pad about rj£" X 2^". 

Draw and cut a rectangle of heavy wrapping 3" X A%" - 
Cut the leatherette a half inch larger on every side. Lay the 
leatherette face down. Lay the other sheet .upon it, equally 
distant from the edges. Crease up the projecting flaps of 
leatherette and glue them over on the paper, previously 
cutting the superfluous leatherette out of the corners. 

From the Manilla, cut a rectangle 2^/i" X 4 "• Paste* this 
on the back of the w T ork in hand, equally distant from edges. 

* Notice that thin papers are best fasted and heavy ones g hied. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



35 



On the binders' board draw Fig. 15. Cut out on heavy 
lines. Score the light line occurring %' f from the wide end 
of the figure. Bend the piece slightly on this scored line. 




Fig. I¥. 



larger one on the other. Spread glue thinly on the small area 




Fi S . IS. 



and press the leg in position on the back of work. Take sug- 
gestion from Fig. 14. 

The calendar pad is glued in the location seen in Fig. 14. 



36 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

It is necessary to apply the glue to only a small strip of the 
back — say the top quarter inch. 

The reader having followed this work from the beginning is 
now tolerably well assured that the exercises are really and 
truly elementary in their scope, and fit for little children. It 
is assumed that the teacher has by this time some facility in 
reading the simple working drawings here given, and under- 
stands the various references to material, all of which have 
been already explained. It is strongly recommended that, 
whatever the age of the pupil, he be not permitted to take this 
work up at the middle or end. In progressing step by step 
from the beginning the whole work is readily performed and 
nothing is obscure nor difficult, for either teacher or child. 

There will arise the question: "My class is not in frac- 
tions. How shall I handle parts of an inch ? " 

I taught these things first in a school where the children 
knew eighths as soon as they knew eight. I don't see how it 
can be otherwise. I don't see how a child can readily know 
eight without knowing the parts of eight. Hence the absurdity 
of setting apart any certain grade for the teaching of fractions. 
If, however, it is in any case impracticable to deal with fourth 
and eighth inches as fractions, teach the child temporarily to 
recognize, on his ruler, the desired space, as an arbitrary 
measure, for the present emergency. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



37 



Model 1-t 

PORTFOLIO, NO. 1 
Material: (i) Heavy wrapping. (2) Four feet of tape. If 
possible have tape harmonize in color with paper. 
Fig. 16 shows this model completed. 




F& /L 



Draw Fig. 1 



Cut all heavy lines. The short heavy 
dashes are cut through with a knife-point to receive tapes. 

Fold on the centre line, but not sharply. Better, in fact, 
not fold at all, but bend around a pencil. 

Draw Fig. 17. The slanting ends may be ruled without 



measuring. Cut on heavy lines, 
along the center line. 



Bend around a pencil, 



38 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

Draw another Fig. 17, and repeat. You need two pieces 
alike. Of course an experienced worker will draw both pieces 




F/cf. J7. 




F/jg. 18. 



in one rectangle and then cut them apart. Cut the tape into 
8" strips. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 39 

Insert a tape-end through a slit from the outside of port- 
folio. Let it lie for half an inch on the inside away from the 
edge, or toward the centre, and glue that half inch down. 
Adjust the other five tapes likewise, in the other five slits. 

You have two pieces like Fig. 17. . Call them guards. 
Glue the guards in the position seen in Fig. 16. 

This portfolio is for the pupil's own use, he henceforth 
keeping his pencil, ruler, and other material in it. 



Model 15 

SCROLLED PICTURE-FRAME 

This model has three pieces. The drawings are very 
simple if made one by one. Each pupil should bring a cabinet 
photograph, to be framed. 

Fig. 19 is the front piece. It is to be drawn on cover- 
paper of a pleasing color. Draw the rectangle, then its 
diagonals. On each diagonal place two dots which shall be 
2" from the end, in each case. The length of diagonal 
between dots is darkened. 

Cut out rectangle. Punch the four holes with ticket- 
punch. Cut the heavy part of diagonals with shears, using 
one of the punched holes as a beginning. 

Fig. 20 is the back piece. Make it of heavy wrapping. 
Draw the outer rectangle. Set off the 1 " margins on three 
sides. Draw the slant lines. Cut out on heavy lines. 



4 o 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Fold the three flaps in so that they occupy the places 
shown by the dotted lines. 

Now see if the photograph slips easily in and out of this 
back piece. 




Glue the back piece on the back of the front piece (Fig. 
19), so adjusting them that their lower edges coincide. Slip 
the photograph in its place (being careful not to glue it fast) 
and place the whole under a book, to be pressed till dry. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



41 




Pi& 20. 




FiS- Zl. 



4 2 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Meantime draw Fig. 21 on binders' board, as heavy as the 
children can cut. Cut on heavy lines. This is the leg. 
Apply glue to about 1" of the large end. Adjust to the back 
of the frame, and press till dry. 

The front of the frame is now to be " scrolled." Remove 
the photograph. Moisten the four triangular flaps with a 
damp sponge. They may now be curled on a lead-pencil 
without cracking. Curl them tight and they will stay when 
dry. 




The picture-frame is now complete and may be set up as 



in Fig. 2: 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 43 



Model 16 

WOVEN TRAY 



Material: 120-lb. cover-paper, of two harmonizing colors. 

Draw Fig. 24. Cut out on heavy lines. In cutting the 
ribs apart remove a narrow strip, as shown at a, a, a. Cut a 
similar little gap between each two ribs, all the way round. 




F/g. 23. 



Bend the ribs up to a perpendicular position, on the lines 
of the central square. 

Cut, from cover-paper of the other color, three strips y^" 
wide and \j" long. 

Weave these bands in and out, as seen in Fig. 23. Weave 
the lowest first. Arrange the ends of the strip to overlap each 
other inside the basket. Glue them there, one over the other. 
Be careful to make corners tight. 

Clip the projecting ribs to a pointed shape. Fold them 
down over top band. 

This method of cardboard weaving has been used in a 



44 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



variety of forms. Baskets, triangular, hexagonal, etc., can 
be made in the same fashion. 



va» 



67% 



c 2 'A " 


*- /" _ 


^/"-^ 


^-/" -^ /" - 


? j^ " 








a 

a 
a 





























00 



r/^. 2*. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 45 

Model 17 

LETTER ENVELOPE 

Material: 70-lb. Manilla. 

Draw Fig. 25. Note that the right and left flaps are 
nowhere alike in dimensions. This will explain itself when 
the model is folded together. Cut out on heavy lines. Fold 
on sides of central rectangle. 

Glue the 3" flap over the y/ 2 " flap. This brings the 
visible edge in the middle. Glue the lower flap over the side 
flaps. It improves this model to press it. 

Model 18 

SQUARE TRAY, BOUND 

Material: For box, 120-lb. cover-paper. For binding, 
strips of leatherette* or any colored facing paper. 

The finished model is shown in Fig. 26. The side is 
broken away to show the manner of adjusting the binding. 

The box-plan is given in Fig. 27. Cut out on heavy 
lines. Score light ones and fold together. The laps are to 
be glued to the inside of box. Hold each joint a few moments 
until dry, before going to the next. Use the glue sparingly. 
Fetch each joint up close at the corner. 

* If leatherette is used for binding, it should be split by starting it at 
the edge and then stripping the back off. Otherwise it is too thick for 
this purpose. 



4 6 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 









«^ 





■"/>/ 1 .% \ 




^N^ 






x v, 


,M\ Mt 1 


* 






%' 



%S 



Mt 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



M 



Cut all the binding V% of an inch wide. Bind the corners 
first, as follows: 

Fold a binding strip down the middle (see Fig. J\d). 
Open again and cover inner surface with paste for about the 




P/^2L 



first inch in length. Press this length in place on one corner 
of the box. Cut off the remainder and proceed with the other 
corners. 



\ 




/ 


*/"-) 


' *•* 


:-/** 


/ 




\ 



For the top, cut a binder long enough to go all around 
with a trifle to spare — or about 17", all told. Fold this 
binder double, open it, and spread inner surface with paste for 
the first 3" or 4". 



4 8 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

Press this pasted portion into place along one edge of the 
box, commencing, not at a corner, but anywhere between 
corners. Press the binding down at the top so that the fit is 
close. 

At the box-corner, clip the binder almost through with the 
point of the scissors. Leave just a "backbone " at the fold. 
Adjust the cut part nicely at the corner and proceed along the 
next edge, pasting as you go, a few inches at a time, and so 
all around the top. 

Prepare a similar strip and paste along the bottom edges, 
as seen in Fig. 26. If a proper color selection is made in 
binding and cover-paper, the effect is very pretty. 

Model 19 

ROUND-LIPPED TRAY 
Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 

The finished model is seen in Fig. 28. The construction 
drawing in Fig. 29. 




F/ir.28. 

To draw the curved lips, bisect the sides of the inner 
square. Spread compasses from one point of bisection to the 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 49 

point from whence the arc starts. Draw the arc and the 

others similarly. If no compasses are to be had, use tri- 
angular instead of curved lips. 




r& z9. 



Cut out on heavy lines, score, fold, and glue. Glue the 
laps this time on the outside of box. The rule is to always 
glue the laps where they will show least. Finally, bend the 
curved flaps back. 



50 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 20 

LACED TRAY 

Material: 120-lb. cover-paper and a flush yard of baby- 
ribbon. 

Model shown in Fig. 30. Drawing in Fig. 31. Choose 




n&- 30. 




FJ£.3I. 

your own dimensions. The fancy edge (or any substitute) 
may be cut on a waste piece and this used as a pattern around 
which to trace. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 51 

The holes are cut with the ticket-punch. Be careful to 
punch them a uniform distance apart. The need of this will 
appear in the lacing. 

For lacing, cut the ribbon into lengths of 12^" or 13". 
Lace as seen in Fig. 30, overlapping ends of ribbon inside and 
joining, with a spot of glue, to each other and to the paper. 
Lace the top ribbon first and be sure to pull the corners up 
close. Hold the fastening a few moments until dry. 



Model 21 
TRI-TRAY 

Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. (It is presumed, all this 
time, that you have a pleasing variety of colors.) 

The model is seen in Fig. 32. The construction in Fig. 
33- 




If compasses are to be had, secure the triangle by the 
usual method, as seen in Fig. 33^. Add the 1" rectangles, 



52 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



then the curves, then the triangular laps, the latter made by 
projecting the sides of the triangle each time to the right. 
Cut, fold, and glue in the usual manner. 




F,£.3$ 



To work without compasses, secure the triangle after the 
method seen in Fig. 33^. A perpendicular is erected at the 





F/£33A 



F/$.333. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



53 



centre of the base, by laying the end of the ruler along the 
latter line in such a way that the ruler-edge shall lie along the 
line to be drawn. If the ruler has a perfectly square end 
(which should be attended to in the buying) the line drawn 
must needs be perpendicular. 

The sides may now be measured off, of the same length as 
the base. For the curved flaps of Fig. 33, substitute low tri- 
angles. 

Model 22 

BUTTON-BASKET 

Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 

Model is seen in Fig. 34. Construction in Fig. 35. 




n% 3* 



Draw the outer rectangle first, then the inner, which is 
\%" within the other. 

Divide all sides of the inner rectangle according to the 
divisions shown at the left edge. That is, the end divisions 
are each V% and the others % of an inch. 



54 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Divide all sides of the outer rectangle according to the 
divisions given for the left end. 



3 A. " 



sfr 




Cut out on heavy lines. Score light lines and fold ribs 
upward. 

Now cut a quarter inch strip of the same material, 12^" 
long. It is easiest to crease it at the. proper points before 
gluing it on, as shown in Fig. 36. - 

With a toothpick touch glue to the tops of a whole row of 
ribs, on the outside. Press the proper length of rim in place 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 5s 

and hold until dry. Finish the other three sides likewise. 
Note that at each corner two ribs should be in contact, all the 
way up. 




Make the handle %" wide and 6" long. Glue it on the 
inside of middle ribs, from the bottom up. 

Model 23 

NEEDLE-BOOK 

Material: (1) Two pieces of "heavy wrapping," each 
2}i" X 3^" (2) A piece of leatherette 4" X 6#". (3) A 
scrap of muslin (or other fabric) an inch wide and 3;^" long. 

(4) A piece of facing-paper (or else Manilla) 3^" X $%"- 

(5) Two pieces of chamois (or else flannel) each 3" X 5". 

(6) Two pieces of baby-ribbon, each 4" long. 

Place the heavy wrapping pieces with long edges about }i 
of an inch apart and glue down upon them the muslin strip, as 
seen in Fig. 37. Lay the work thus prepared upon the 
leatherette so that the latter shows an equal margin on all four 
edges. In this position the leatherette is to be wrong side up 



56 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



and the other is to be muslin-side down (or toward the 
leatherette). 

Cut a slit in the leatherette for the baby-ribbon, just at the 
edge of the heavy wrapping (Fig. 37 A). Pass 1" of the baby 
ribbon through this slit from the finished side of the leatherette. 




W 



Ti$. V 



/v\ 



\ 



n& 37 a 



The ribbon passed through the slit n6w lies between the 
leatherette and the heavy wrapping, and in this position is to 
be glued to the former. 

The work, so placed, is now to be glued to the leatherette. 
Spread the glue over the whole face of the work that lies 
toward the leatherette — save the middle half inch of the 
muslin, running full length of the open space, and including 
it. That is, the eighth inch of muslin free of the wrapping is 
to remain free of glue, together with a little margin each side 
of it. 

Having done this gluing, press the work, preferably under 
a warm iron. Otherwise under any weight. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 5; 

Now fold the leatherette margins over on the wrapping 
and glue them down (Fig. 37B), first cutting away the super- 
fluous corner folds. 




Fig- 37 JB. 



Fig. 37 "<*■ 



The facing-paper is now to be pasted over the inside of 
the work, leaving the leatherette exposed y%" at every edge 
(Fig- 370- 

This finishes the covers. Press till dry and then fold them 
together and work back and forth until the hinge is quite limp. 

Fold the pieces of chamois together, making four leaves. 
Sew these leaves to the hinge, stitching through the muslin, 
but not the leatherette. Before putting the leaves in they 
may be pinked with a pinking-iron or scissors. 

It improves the needle-book to iron it with a moderately 
warm iron. A hot iron ruins the leatherette. 



58 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 24 

SCROLLED PIN-TRAY 
Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 
The finished model is shown in Fig. 38, the construction 




F/$. 38. 



in Fig. 39. In drawing the latter, secure the equilateral tri- 
angle by either method used in Model 21. Adjacent each 
side of the triangle construct a \" rectangle, and adjacent this, 
a lyo" rectangle, as shown. 

Produce^ the sides of the triangle indefinitely in each 
direction. 

Find the lines separating the \" rectangles from the \y 2 " 
rectangles. Produce these each way until they meet the 
extended lines of the triangle. 

Connect these junction points with the respective outer 
corners of the i}?" rectangles. 

* Produce — in geometry, a term meaning to extend a line an additional 
distance. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



59 



Because of these slant lines, we must now say quadri- 
lateral instead of rectangle. At the right end of each i' 
quadrilateral construct a y%" lap, as shown. 




Fig. 39 



Cut out on heavy lines. Score and fold only on the lines 
of the triangle, including the extensions. 

Glue together, as usual. Hold each corner until quite firm 
before going on with the next. 

The \]A" projections are now to be rolled upon a lead- 
pencil. They must first be dampened to insure smooth 



60 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

rolling. After rolling, allow the dampened paper to dry, after 
which the rolls should be tightened and glued fast underneath. 

Model 25 

SCROLLED MATCH-RECEIVER 

Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. 
See Fig. 40 for the finished model. 




n&.+o. 



Draw Fig. 41. Cut out on heavy lines. Score and fold 
on the lines of the central square, and on the slant lines found 
in two of the adjacent figures. 

Glue as usual, with the laps on the outside. 

Roll the projecting flaps according to directions given in 
Model 24. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



61 




62 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 20 
BOUND BOOK NO. 1 



Figs. 42 and 43. 

Material: (1) Binders' board No. 70, covered outside with 




Wa 



(2) leatherette and inside with (3) facing-paper; (4) muslin for 
hinges; (5) two feet of pretty string or strong thread, for bind- 
ing; (6) blank paper of any sort for leaves. 

Draw a rectangle 6" X 9" on the binders' board. Divide 
it into rectangles 414 " X 6" and cut them out. 

Prepare one of these rectangles as follows: Parallel with a 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



63 



A X A" edge draw a line half an inch from it. Cut on this line 
thus severing a half-inch strip 4^'' long. 

Lay this strip back in its place (as it was before being cut 
off). Glue over the cut a strip of muslin an inch wide and 4" 
long. The two pieces of board are now joined, the muslin 
acting as a hinge. 




Cut a piece of leatherette a half inch larger on every side 
than the binders' board. Glue the binders' board to this 
leatherette so that the muslin shall lie between the two. Turn 
the projecting leatherette over the edge and glue down. See 
Fig. 43- 

Cut a piece of facing-paper 4J4" x SU '■ Paste this on 
the inside of the work in hand. When this is dry, run a 
pencil-point along the facing-paper over the line of the hinge, 
severing the paper. The effect will be seen in Fig. 43. 

With the ticket-punch cut three holes through the half-inch 
piece. 



6 4 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



This finishes one cover. Construct the other in a similar 
way. Be careful to have the respective punched holes oppo- 
site each other in the two covers. 

Punch the leaves now, in the proper place, and lace the 
whole together as seen in Figs. 42 and 42a. 



Model 27 
BUTTON-BOX, ORNATE 



See Fig. 44. 




r/ff. **■. 



Material: (1) Heavy wrapping ; (2) dark facing-paper, for 
edging; (3) light paper, for facing; (4) leatherette, for lining; 
(5) a scrap of light Manilla, for bottom facing. 

Draw Fig. 45 on heavy wrapping. Cut out and glue up 
as usual. 

Edge top, bottom, and corners with dark facing-paper, as 
in Model 18; cut the panels out of light facing and paste in 
the position shown in Fig. 44. 

Out of leatherette cut four pieces like Fig. 46. Glue them 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



65 



lightly in place inside the box. The little margins are added 
to secure covering at the joints. 



\ 





> 

7 


^^™— ^ 






7 





\ 



F'JS- IS. 




?'S ^ 



Cut a square of leatherette 3^" on a side, or just large 
enough to fit nicely on the bottom, inside. Glue it in place. 



66 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

Cut a piece of thin Manilla (or any other plain paper) 3^" 
square. Paste it on the bottom, outside. 

Model 28 
PORTRAIT-CALENDAR 

Figs. 47, 48, and 49. 

Material: (1) Heavy wrapping; (2) leatherette; (3) a 
Perry picture (of some great author or patriot) ; (4) a calendar 




pad, about 2" X V/2" \ (5) a strip of binders' board, for the 
leg. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



67 



Cut a rectangle of heavy wrapping 4^" x 7". In the 
upper part cut an oval or round opening of suitable size and 
shape to properly disclose the picture. 

Cover now with the leatherette. After the latter is glued 
on, cut the corresponding opening in the leatherette, but a 
half inch smaller all around. The half-inch margin is then to 



*./!"- 



he 




<^ / *-* 






^'S- *S- 



F'jfW. 



be cut into "teeth " and these are to be folded over on the 
inside of wrapping and glued there, as in Fig. 48. 

Fasten the picture in place with a spot or two of glue 

very, very little. Cut a piece of heavy wrapping %" smaller 
in each dimension than the work in hand. Glue it onto the 
back of the latter. 

The work should now be pressed while drying.. 



63 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

Meanwhile cut Fig. 49 out of binders' board. Glue it in 
place by the upper end and bend it out as seen in Fig. 47. 

Affix the calendar pad with a touch of glue applied along 
the upper edge of the back. 

Punch a hole above the picture opening, that the calendar 
may either hang or stand. 



WORKING DRAWINGS 

A working drawing always looks more complicated than it 
proves to be. Those here given will offer no difficulty to 
children who have made the foregoing models. 

Lest some of the points previously mentioned may have 
become obsolete, let us recall them. In all of the working 
drawings given, heavy lines are lines to be cut. Light lines, 
generally, but not always, are to be creased. This creasing 
is to be done without any weakening of the paper. Hence 
the line, in scoring, is not to be "cut part way through," as 
is sometimes done. Instead, a dull point, of any sort, is used, 
that indents without cutting. A dulled brad-awl, smooth on 
the point, answers well. 

In gluing, the danger is always of using too much glue. 
A toothpick is therefore better than even the smallest brush. 

As the drawings are coming now to require some degree 
of accuracy, the matter of pencil-sharpening is of moment. 
Instead of the ordinary conical point used in writing, the 
graphite may be cut to a wedge point. This wedge, by reason 
of wearing much longer, is more useful in accurate drawing. 
It is seen in Fig. 64. Of course this item is a luxury only to 

69 



70 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

be enjoyed where a set of pencils may be put apart for use in 
this work. 

Finally, it has been agreed all along that new words are 
to be properly developed on their introduction ; and that the 
proper word shall always be used, to the exclusion of " baby- 
talk." 



Model 29 

LIP AND LACE TRAY 



Material: 120-lb. cover-paper; 45 inches of baby-ribbon, 
harmonizing in color with the paper. 

Draw Fig. 51. The arrow shows radius for arcs. The 




small holes need not be drawn, but their centres should be 
marked. 

Score the lines of the square. Also the chord of each arc. 
Cut the figure out. 

Cut the ribbon -holes with the ticket-punch. To locate the 

hole accurately look down the barrel of the punch for the dot 

71 



72 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

previously marked in the drawing. The middle hole and that 
in the flap are cut at once, by folding the flap over. 




Cut the baby-ribbon into 15" lengths. Lace the top row 
first. Pass one end of the ribbon just inside the upper right 
hole. Glue this intruded end fast to the inside of the box, to 
the left of the hole. A quarter inch of ribbon is plenty for this 
fastening. 

Pass the other end of the ribbon through the upper left hole 
of the adjacent wall of the box, from the outside. Bring it 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 73 

out through the next upper hole to the right. Draw the lacing 
taut. Where the ribbon twists, adjust it with a toothpick. 

Now stretch the ribbon over the middle hole. Press it 
through, by means of the toothpick, thus producing a little 
loop of ribbon inside. Stretch this loop taut and glue it in an 
upward direction against the inside of the box. See Fig. 50. 
Be sure the lacing is taut before gluing. 

Pass the ribbon in at the upper hole next on the right, 
then out at the corner hole. Pass it around the corner and 
continue. Having reached the starting-point, glue the last 
end over the first. Be certain that the whole ribbon is taut. 

A glance at Fig. 50 will show the lacing of the remaining 
two ribbons. 

To strengthen the corners, cut four triangles from the 
waste clippings of cover-paper. A square shown in Fig. 51^ 
makes two such triangles. Fold each as shown in Fig. 51^. 
Glue in the box-corners as seen in Fig. 50. 

Model 30 
HEXAGONAL TRAY, LIPPED 

Figs. 52 and 53. 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

In drawing Fig. 53 get the inner circle first. Keep the 
compasses spread the same radius and with them so spread, step 
off the circumference into six spaces. If this is accurately 
done these spaces will be equal. 



74 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Draw lines connecting the points of intersection and form 
ing a hexagon. 

Draw now the outer circle. 




"Radii r 

I»)ner circle, \ s /q". 
Outer c'»rc\e, %*/%. 



*>>• S3. 

Lay the ruler connecting two alternate points of the 
hexagon. This position is indicated by the dashed line. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 75 

Draw the lines from the two corners of the hexagon to 
meet the outer circumference. Lay the ruler again, connect- 
ing alternate angles, and draw similar lines. In this manner 
draw two such lines, springing from each angle of the 
hexagon. 

Connect these lines, in pairs, at their outer extremities. 
Thus are completed six rectangles, based upon the sides of 
the hexagon. 

Draw now the curvilinear flap based upon each rectangle. 
The dotted arrow shows radius. 

Lay the ruler connecting opposite angles of the hexagon. 
Draw lines connecting these angles with outer circumference.* 

It is safest for the children to mark, in some way, the lines 
they are to cut, lest a mistake should spoil the work. Instead 
of darkening such lines, an X made upon each answers as 
well. 

After cutting out, crease the remaining three sides of each 
rectangle. 

Glue as shown in Fig. 52. 



* These hexagon problems have been successfully given to second year 



children, by means of a suitable dictation. 



76 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

Model 31 
'BURNT-MATCH RECEIVER 
Figs. 54 and 55. 




Material: 120-lb. cover. Pieces are required 7" X n" or 
over. 

Draw a pair of parallels the full length of paper and 1 y£'' 
apart. 

Draw another pair crossing these to form the central 
square. 

Mark out the remaining divisions. 

To draw the flaps lay the ruler as indicated by the dotted 
line. Point off the half inch. Draw the lines to this point. 

Before the cutting, score the sides of the central square 
and the middle line springing from each corner of the square. 
No others. 

Cut out and crease on scored lines. Glue flaps outside as 
shown in Fig. 54. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ;; 




73 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Curl the upstanding flaps by first damping the upper sur- 
face, then rolling on a pencil. Allow to dry, then glue in 
place. 



Model 32 
TRI CUP, MOUNTED 
Figs. 56, 57, and 58. 





F/g. SL 



Material: 120-lb. cover. 

In Fig. 57, draw the centre equitriangle by either of our 
former methods (Model 21). 

To draw the remainder of the figure, first strike the three 
axes of the triangle, extending them indefinitely, as shown. 
The various measurements are now readily made. 

Cut on heavy lines and glue up. 

Draw Fig. 58. Cut on heavy lines and glue up. 

The two parts are now to be united, as in Fig. 56. Touch 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ; 9 

a little glue to the under side of the upper piece, near each 
angle. Press the pieces together steadily for two minutes. 




Model :\:) 

HALF OBLIQUE BUTTON-BOX 

Figs. 59 and 60. 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

In Fig. 60, draw first the outer square. Then set off the 
lines half an inch within. In the inner square so formed, set 
off the lines 1" within, not carrying them beyond the inner 
square. 



8o 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 




Fi<t.J9< 





\ / 


/' 


\ 

■&< 


\ 




/ 


• 


*- r -* 


/ 




z 




\ 




/■ \ 





FJg. io. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 81 

The dotted line shows ruler location for getting the short 
slant line of the outer lip. Ruler connects a and b to get ac . 

There are two sets of glue-laps — one for the \" sides, one 
for the- yo," slant sides. 

Cut the figure out on all heavy lines. Crease all remain- 
ing lines (the dotted one not having been drawn). 

In gluing, have all laps outside as seen in Fig. 59. 

Model 34 

HEXAGONAL TRAY, FULL FINISH 
Figs. 61, 62, and 63. 
Material: (1) 120-lb. cover, for box; (2) a lighter weight, 




harmonizing, for edging (leatherette, if split, will answer); (3) 
leatherette, for lining; (4) light-weight Manilla, for bottom 
facing, outside. 

Draw Fig. 62, taking dimensions from Fig. 53. 

Glue up into a hexagonal box. 

Bind corners and top and bottom edges as seen in Fig. 61, 
and as previously performed in Model 18. 

Cut out, now, six leatherette pieces like Fig. 63. A good 



82 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



way is to make one such piece in cover-paper and use it as a 
pattern to trace the six from. 

Observe that Fig. 63 has two laps, one on the right, one 
on the lower edge. These are to be folded so that the finished 
surface is inside. 





FigiZ. 

These leatherette pieces, so prepared, are lightly glued in 
place, as seen in Fig. 61. In each case the lower lap extends 




Tin. u. 

out on the floor of the box, and the side lap underlies the next 
piece glued on. 

Cut a hexagon of leatherette a trifle smaller than the floor 
of the box. Glue it in. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT S3 

Cut a hexagon of light Manilla, based on a circle \*/>" in 
radius. Paste it on the under side of box. 



Model 35 
OBLIQUE MATCH-STAND 
Figs. 65 and 66. 




Material: 120-lb. cover. In Fig. 66 draw a 2j{ /; square, 
producing the lines indefinitely. It pays, in this, and similar 
models, to test the squareness of each child's square, before 
the succeeding steps are taken. 

The remainder of the drawing explains itself. Cut on all 
heavy lines. Note that this will cut the laps into two sets, 
those belonging to the collar and those belonging to the body. 

Score the sides of the central square. Score those lines 
separating laps from other surfaces. (Be careful to select the 
right line for scoring. It is a good plan to have the others 
erased beforehand.) Score lines separating collar from body. 



8 4 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Fold into shape, as seen in Fig. 65. In gluing, the body 
laps go inside, while the collar laps go outside. 



z'A 




- /%" 






>l/Z 



After the glue is dry, it is a good plan to pinch up all the 
angles. This will correct any bowing out of the sides or 
bottom. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Figs. 67-70. 



Model 36 
CUBICAL BOX 




Material: (i) 120-lb. cover. (2) Binders' board No. 70. 
(3) 50-lb. cover, for facing (2). On 120-lb. cover, draw Fig. 
68, in which all squares are of the same size as the centre one. 
Cut, crease, and glue into box form. 

Prepare a cover to match. Fig. 69 gives the drawing. 

Notice in the sketch, Fig. 67, a reinforced top and bottom. 
These pieces make the box stronger and enrich its appearance. 

Cut a piece of binders' board about 6 V X 3". Face it on 



S6 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 







" 




/ 


\ 


/ \ 








\ 


/ 








J/„ " 



3% 



s 



$£. 



H 



Z'/z" 

Sejuare. 



Fig. jo. 



r/jf.69. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



87 



both eides with 50-lb. cover. The piece should now be dried 
thoroughly before proceeding". Ironing, alternately, one side 
and then the other, is an excellent way of drying the board 
flat. Or it may be pressed in a book. 

On the board so prepared draw two of Fig. 70. Cut them 
out. 

Glue these, one to the box, the other to the box-cover, as 
seen in Fig. 67. Apply the glue to the box and cover, not 
to the prepared squares. Apply it sparingly to the corners 
and edges, instead of spreading it over all the surface. 

Now place the cover on the box and lay a book over the 
whole until the glue is dry. 



Model 37 
OBLIQUE TRAY, BOUND 
Figs. 71 and 72. 




V's- 7'. 

Material: for tray, 120-lb. cover; for edging, 50-lb. cover. 

Draw Fig. 72, the outer rectangle first. To secure the 
inner one place dots, as shown, 3^" from corners. Lay the 
ruler connecting a pair of these, and draw an inner line only 
long enough to answer for the inner rectangle. So continue. 



88 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Score all light lines. Cut all heavy lines. The V-shaped 
corner-pieces are laps. Don't cut them off. 




F/0. 7*>. 



Fold tray together. Glue laps outside. Sharpen the 
angles up by pinching. Clip off projecting laps. 

Of the 50-lb. cover, cut strips }i" wide and a few inches 
long. Fold down the middle as seen in Fig. 740. 

Now spread the glue sparingly over the first inch or so of 
such a strip. Press this glued portion into one corner of the 
tray and clip it off flush with the edge. Edge the other 
corners in the same way. Edge the outside corners similarly. 

In like manner glue this edging along all angles of the 
tray and the top edges, as seen in Fig. 71. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



89 



Model 38 

HEXAGONAL CATCH-ALL 
Figs. 73 and 74. 




F(2- 73. 

Material: 120-lb. cover for tray ; 50-lb. cover for edging. 

Draw Fig. 74, the outer circle first. After drawing the 
inner circle, use the same radius to step off the six angles of 
the hexagon. Draw the hexagon. 

Lay the ruler now joining opposite angles of the hexagon, 
as shown by the dotted line. The ruler, so placed, intersects 
the outer circumference in two places. Mark each intersection 
by a dot. 

The 3/g" lap may now be marked off by placing half of it 
on each side of this dot. Secure the other five laps in the 
same way. 

Cut out; crease, and glue up as usual. 

Finish with edging as in Model 37. Finish the short 
upright corners first, inside and out. Then the bottom angles 



9 o 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



and the curved upper edges. To fit the edging along these 
curves, work it between the fingers in such a way as to stretch 
the fold slightly and wrinkle the open edges. This effect is 




]r,r, er circle , j_ft 
Outer c'trcie, % *l V» 




'. 7¥cu t 



seen in the left half of Fig. 74^2. Another method is to clip 
the edging, at intervals of about %" , part way through, from 
the open edges toward the fold. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 91 

Model 39 
HAIR-PIN STAND 

Figs. 75, 76, and 77. 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

Draw Fig. 76 and cut, fold, and glue, as usual. Laps 
inside. 

Draw Fig. 77 and finish up as usual. Clip projecting laps. 

We have now the two parts seen in the sketch, Fig. 75. 

Glue them together by applying glue sparingly to the 

bottom of the larger member, around the edges only not 

over the whole surface. 

Place the pieces together as shown. Lay a light book- 
over the top. Let it remain until the glue is dry. 

Model 40 

BOUND BOOK, NO. 2. 

This exercise is best turned to account in mending school- 
books, such as readers, the covers of which have become 
"dog-eared" or worse. The operations are simple enough 
if taken one by one, in the proper order. Third-year children 
should find no difficulty in them provided they have made a 
reasonable number of the earlier models. 

The materials are: (1) two pieces of binders' board No. 
70, if a stiff cover is desired. If the covers are to be flexi- 
ble, substitute "heavy wrapping," or even heavy Manilla. 



9 2 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 




F/ S . 7s. 




*>jf 77 




n$. 7L 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 93 

(2) About 2 feet of cheese-cloth, 4" wide. (3) Enough 
leatherette or else gingham or calico to cover the boards and 
lap over. (4) Plain paper, white or Manilla, equal to four 
book-pages in its area. 

Cut from the binders' board two rectangles, each as broad 
as the book and )±' greater in length. 

Cut from the cheese-cloth a strip as long as one of these 
rectangles and 2" wider than the thickness of the book to be 
bound. Glue the rectangles to this strip, leaving a space 
between them i._," wider than the back of the book-body. See 
Fig. 78. 




Wff. 78. 

The book-cover, so far completed, is now to be faced with 
the leatherette, calico, or whatever has been selected for the 
outer finish. Cut the latter l". longer and wider than the 
work to be faced. This piece is now to be pasted (not glued) 
over the covers, on the side already occupied by the cheese- 
cloth hinge. See Fig. 79. 



94 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



The pasting ought to be done on the busy-work table, in 
a corner of the room. A pan of ordinary flour-paste is the 
thing. The best paste-brush is the worker's forefinger. 
Some newspapers, torn into quarter sheets, are convenient 
table-covers while this pasting is going on. 

The projecting portions of the cloth are now to be folded 
over to the inner side of the cover and pasted down — or glue 
may be advantageously used for this edgework. See Fig. 79. 



\JL 



The work will be smoother if the superfluous folds in the 
corners are first clipped away. If the work can be pressed it 
will be the better for it. 

Cut now a piece of cheese-cloth a little shorter than the 
book-body and 2" wider than the book is thick. Glue this 
securely over the back of the book, as shown in Fig. 80. Let 
the glue dry. 

The book-body so prepared is now to be fastened inside 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



95 



the covers. The glue must be applied only to the projecting 
flaps of the cheese-cloth, leaving the middle portion dry. 
Fig. 8 1 shows the work at this point. Lay the work aside to 




dry awhile. Put newspaper between the sticky cheese-cloth 
and the book-pages, to protect the latter. 



96 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

( )ne step remains. Open any bound book and notice that 
the lining of the cover and the fly-leaf are one piece of paper. 

Prepare two such sheets, out of plain paper, white or 
Manilla. Cut them as wide as the length of your book-page. 
Their length must be twice the width of the book-page. In 
pasting each sheet in place notice that one-half of it must be 
pasted solidly to the inner side of the book-cover. The paste 
extends also about yi" onto the fly-leaf, joining it slightly to 
the first book-page. 

If the covers, when drying, show a disposition to curl, put 
them under a weight until dry. 



Model 41 
DROP-EDGED CATCH-ALL 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

Draw Fig. 82, beginning with the outside square. The 
middle square lies y^' 1 within and the inmost square 1 " within 
that. Notice that the jMT' measurement (see lower line J fixes 
the slant of the oblique lines. 

Cut out on all heavy lines. Score all remaining light lines. 

We have, on folding, two sets of laps to be glued. Glue 
the lower set in place first. The upper afterward. All laps 
must be underneath. (See finished model, Fig. 83.) Clip off 
projecting laps. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 9 y 
6</ z * , > 



«'/%"*- / 




3'/z 



e, o 






TJg. *z 




rig- 33. 



9 8 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Model 42 

SUNFLOWER CATCH-ALL 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

Draw Fig. 84, the outer circle last. Use the same radius 




Oulgr circle 3/¥. 
Middle circle Z". 
ir)Y)er circle l%* 



to step this outer circumference off into sixths as if to draw a 

hexagon. Divide one of these sixths into halves. Begin at 

this point of division and step off into sixths again. This cuts 
the circumference into twelve equal parts. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 99 

Draw a line from the centre of the circle to one of these 
intersections. Draw another at right angles with the f.rst. 
This cuts away one-fourth of the circle. 

On the remaining three-fourths of the circle draw the little 
scallops. The centres from which they are drawn are obtained 
by laying the ruler from the centre of the circle to the respec- 
tive division-marks on outer circumference. Where the ruler 
crosses second circle each time, place a dot. These dots are 
centres from which to draw the arcs forming the scallops. 
The dotted line will illustrate. 

The teeth may be drawn free-hand, extending from the 
middle circle to the inmost circle. 

Before cutting out, add the }£" lap. 

Cut out on all heavy lines. Glue the piece in a conical 
form, as seen in Fig. 85, with the lap outside. 




^mg£^Ti£. 85. 



From similar stock cut a circle $%'■' in diameter. 
This is the base-piece. 

Bend the little teeth inward. Apply glue to their undt 
LofC. 



ioo 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



sides. Press the conical piece in place on the circle. Hold 
till dry. 

Cut another circle, 3" in diameter. Glue this on the inside 
to serve as a floor-covering. Keep the edges pressed down a 
minute or two. 



Model 43 

OBLONG BOX AND LID 

Material: (1) Heavy wrapping. (2) Facing-paper (a 50-lb. 
cover-paper is excellent). (3) The same weight in a har- 
monizing color, for edging. 

On the heavy wrapping draw Fig. 86. Cut out and fold. 

« r * 









- /" > 













i 

To fasten the corners, cut strips of edging }i" wide. Glue 
such a strip inside the corner as shown in Fig. 86a. Then 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



101 



bend it sharply down and glue it on the outside of the same 
corner. Treat all four corners this way. 




^vj. 86>gl. 



Cut a strip of facing-paper 2" wide and \^ X A" long. Paste 
this facing around the sides of the box, folding the upper edge 



C'/s" — 





^~^ 




1 " 

' / > 








^^ 





i 



if? 



n s . 87. 

down the inside of the box, the lower edge onto the bottom. 
On heavy wrapping draw Fig. 87. The two triangular 



02 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



inlets may be drawn free-hand after locating the middle of the 
line. 

Cut out and fold. Glue corners with strips, as in previous 
case. 

Paste similar strips along the upper edges of this cover 
piece, as seen in Fig. 88. 




Cut now a piece of facing-paper 3^" long and i%" wide. 
Paste it on one of the long sides of the cover so that margins 
will be left on three sides. On the fourth, or lower edge, the 
pasted piece is folded over and pasted on the inside. 

Face the other three sides in the same way. Cut a rect- 
angle of facing-paper 3 3/j"' X ?■%" ■ Paste it on the top of the 
cover, leaving a margin on all sides. This completes the 
model. If now a book or other weight be placed upon it, it 
will dry smooth. 

Ambitious pupils may want to line the box with plain 
paper. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



10 



Model 44 

OCTAGONAL OBLIQUE TRAY 
Figs. 89-91. 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

After drawing the two circles in Fig. 90 inscribe the 




Ti£. 89, 

octagon in the inner one. The method is given in Fig-, goc. 
Primary children find nothing formidable about this octagon if 
it is explained at the blackboard, step by step, as they do their 
work. 

The octagon completed, lay the ruler connecting a pair of 
its opposite angles and crossing the outer circumference on 
opposite sides. Mark these two intersections. 

In a similar way, mark a point on the outer circumference 
opposite each angle of the octagon. 

METHOD FOR DRAWING THE OCTAGON. 
Draw a circle, radius, say i%" . Lay ruler across centre 
and mark points a and /;. 



104 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Spread dividers a distance somewhat longer than the- 
radius. Use points a and b as centres and draw the arcs 
giving c. 




r>$' 90. 



La}' ruler from c to the centre, crossing circle. Mark 
d and e. 

Spread dividers somewhat more than half the distance b—e. 
With b and e as centres, draw the arcs giving/. 

Lay ruler from /"to centre. Mark pointy. 



Draw the line e 



It 



one side of an octagon The 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 105 

other seven may be spaced off by spreading the dividers e-g 
and stepping similar lengths off around the circumference. 
The sides may then be drawn. 

We have now eight points on the -outer circumference. 
To right and left of each place other points yb" away. This 
will make the latter %" apart. 




F/'3. 90 c 

Connect each pair of points with the respective angle of 
the octagon. 

Strengthen one line of each pair. Cut heavy lines. 
Crease remaining straight ones. 

Glue up as seen in Fig. 89, with laps outside. It will 
enrich this model to bind edges and angles, as in Model 38. 

The base is constructed as in Fig. 91. Of course the 
entire drawing completes a circle. Enough is shown in the 
figure for our purpose. 

The method is similar to that followed in the piece preced- 
ing, but the measurements differ. The V-shaped openings at 
the outer circumference are here }i" across instead of ]/^ r . 



106 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

In cutting this figure out, the V-shapes are removed, being 
too small to use for laps. In their stead, pieces a little wider 




Tig. 9/, 

are to be first folded down the middle and then glued in place, 
nside this base-piece, when it is being glued up. 

The base is now to be glued to the upper member, as in 
Fig. 89. Touch the glue sparingly to the bottom of the upper 
member, at the edges only. Press the pieces in place and 
hold till dry. 

Model 45 

MATCH-POCKET 

Figs. 92 and 93. 

Material: This model can be made in 120-lb. cover, but is 
more effective in heavy wrapping covered with leatherette. 

In Fig. 93, first draw a rectangle 3" X A%" . Divide it 
into rectangles 2^4", i v , and \}i" respectively. 

Extend the upper edge of the \" rectangle \" toward the 
left; \%" above draw a line parallel, and 1^" long. Con- 
nect the outer ends of these lines. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



107 



On the slant line so produced, place a dot \yi" from its 
lower end. Connect this dot with t'ie right end of the \)A" 
line. 

To this wing add the two laps shown. They may be 
drawn free-hand, about %" wide. 




Draw a corresponding wing, with its laps, on the opposite 
side of the figure. 

Mark off the slanted top of the rectangle. 

Cut heavy lines, crease remaining light ones. 

Glue up, as in Fig. 92, with laps inside. 

To face the model with leatherette, first edge all edges 
and angles, inner and outer. For this purpose cut strips of 
leatherette }&" wide and strip the back off to make the stuff 
thinner. For the facing, cut shapes of leatherette correspond- 



oS 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



ing to the various faces, but slightly smaller, and glue them 
on. In this gluing be careful to make the edges stick closely. 
The model is very rich in appearance if this leatherette 
+— 3" * 

T 




facing be made to cover every part, including the back and 

inside. 

With the ticket-punch, or a larger one, if at hand, cut the 

hole for hanging. 

Model 4G 

PENCIL-VASE 
Figs. 94-96. 

Material: 120-lb. cover. 

In Fig. 95, draw the main rectangle, 4" X 9". Divide it 
into six \y 2 " rectangles. At upper end of each draw a semi- 
circle. At lower end a lap. At the right add the yk" lap. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



[09 



Cut on heavy lines, crease light ones. 

Glue in a hexagonal form, with the lap inside. Bend 
semicircles outward. 

Draw Fig. 96, the circles first, then the hexagon within 
the inner one. Opposite the angles of the hexagon, place 
dots on the outer circumference. 




F'JS. 94. 



To right and left of each of these dots place others S/%" 
away. We now have eighteen dots, in sets of three. 

Connect them all with the respective angles of the 
hexagon. 

Draw lines, parallel with sides of hexagon, completing the 
quadrangles. Carefully strengthen the lines to be cut. 



no FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 




* 

■+ 



7^ 



- /A 



A 



7^ 



7\ 



?" - 



/\ ** 




Tin. 96. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT m 

Cut on heavy lines, crease the remaining straight ones. 

Glue up with laps inside. 

In uniting the two parts of the model, the upright member 
is pushed inside the base-piece until it strikes bottom. Test 
them and see if they fit properly. If so, apply glue to the six 
laps at the lower end of the upright member. These laps are, 
of course, bent inward toward the centre. The glue is applied 
to their outer, or lower, faces. 

Push the two pieces together. Place a book across the 
top, as a weight, while the glue dries. 

The six vertical edges, continuous in both members, 
should now be edged, as seen in Fig. 94. 



Model 4/1 

PENDANT MATCH-SAFE 

Figs. 97-99. 

Material : Heavy wrapping faced with leatherette. 

The teacher should cut Fig. 98 out of tough cardboard. 
The children may be allowed to trace around the edges of the 
pattern so prepared. The dotted lines need not be drawn. 

After cutting, this Fig. 98 should be edged and faced with 
leatherette. The facing piece may be shaped by tracing about 
the piece to be covered. The leatherette is then cut }£" 



H2 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

inside this line. The back may be faced similarly in Manilla 
instead of leatherette. 

Fig. 99 is simple enough for the children to draw. It is 
cut, creased, and glued with laps inside. It is then edged and 
faced with leatherette (except on the back). 




n&. n 



In gluing this box to the back piece, apply glue to the 
back of the box, around the edges only. Press the two pieces 
together and hold till dry. The sandpaper (preferably the 
finest number) is now to be cut and glued in position. An old 
pair of scissors should be reserved for cutting sandpaper. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



13 



A._ 






^" MX 



"7 



'/+: 



. ..-z 



3/*" 



Sctricl 



paper, 

2'/*: 



r/$. 9 8. 



T 




This drawing is too difficult for primary children. The teacher should 
cut this figure out in tough cardboard. The children may then trace 
around it for their own models. 



114 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



The upper hole is made with a punch, the lower with a 
smaller punch or a brad-awl. See Fig. 97. 





* 


— 


t 


t " 







— ^ 




% 




W 


'/x" ■ 


/'W 


Vx" 


W ' 


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s 


T 






\ A A A A / 








P'S- 99. 


1 


\ 


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Model 48 

LOTUS TRAY 
Figs. 100-103. 
Materials: 120-lb. cover-paper and two shades of leather- 




F/\g. 100. 

ette, all harmonizing. An adjacent harmony in olive-greens 
gives a fine effect. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



ii5 



Draw Fig. 101 on cover-paper. Note that the inner circle 
is to be cut quite away. Also one-quarter of the remainder 
less the }i" lap. 

Glue up in conical form. The joint will be smoother if the 




ends are shaved thin with a sharp knife. Or they may be 
sandpapered thin. 

Draw Fig. 102 on leatherette. After the two circles are 
drawn, mark out the quadrant to be cut away. 

With the dividers spread the radius of large circle, begin 
at a and divide the circumference into sixths ; begin similarly 
at b and go around. The result will be twelfths. Using 
these intersections as centres and keeping the previous radius, 
the scallops may now be marked off. 



i6 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Cut the figure out and fasten it on the inside of the conical 
piece, using occasional touches of glue. 




P/£. IOZol. 



The rim of leatherette projecting below the cover-paper is 
to be snipped at intervals into "teeth." Fig. 102^ shows the 
work at this stage. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT n; 

Draw Fig. 103 on cover-paper (or heavy wrapping - will 
do). For a method of drawing the octagon revert to Fig. goc 
Page 105. 

Cut out the octagon. Edge it with leatherette, stripped 
thin. Face the top with leatherette, the bottom with Manilla. 

To complete the model bend the " teeth " inward. Touch 




their lower surface with glue. Press the octagon against them 
as seen in Fig. 100. Hold till dry. 

Finally, cut a circle of leatherette y in radius. Glue it 
to the inside bottom, covering the teeth. 

Model 49 

SQUARE VASE 
Figs. 1 04-106. 

Material: Leatherette and 120-lb. cover-paper. 

If Fig. 105 is deemed too difficult for dictation, the teacher 
may cut out a pattern, around which the children may trace. 
The y?" circle is punched out with a " bar-punch " (price, 20 
cents at the hardware store). Fig. 105^. 



n8 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

The model requires four pieces, as in Fig. 105, cut from 
120-lb. cover. 

Each piece is now to be backed with leatherette, as in 




K/g. /o* 

Fig. 105*7. The leatherette may be shaped by tracing around 
the cover-piece. 

Back of the leatherette another piece of cover-paper is now 
to be glued. It will be the same area as the leatherette, plus 
the dotted laps in Fig. 105/?. 

We now have the four sides of our vase and each side is 
in three thicknesses. 

Of the projecting laps (Fig. 105^) the upper ones are glued 
over in front. The bottom lap is folded inward to be later 
glued to the base-piece. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



1 1 




* /% 

Tig. /os. 





Kg. /OSa. 



T/Q. /0S&-. 



Tig. 'osc. 



120 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



The side-lap is folded inward. Glue is applied to its outer 
face and the adjacent side of the vase is affixed. 

After the four panels are thus joined, edge the corners with 
cover-paper, preferably of lighter weight but the same color. 

Fig. 1 06 is the base-piece. 




-W 



The holes are cut with the ticket-punch. Back them with 
bits of the leatherette used in the panels. 

Glue the base-piece together as usual and glue the top- 
piece to it. 

Cut a square of cover-paper 1 y±" on a side. Glue it to the 
inside floor of the vase, applying the glue near the edges only. 

If the completed work shows the least tendency to warp in 
drying, fill it with sand. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



12 i 



Model 50 

FULL-BOUND PORTFOLIO 

Figs. 107-109. 

This model is simpler in its construction than some of 
those preceding. The fact that it requires surface-pasting over 
a considerable area, however, makes it an exercise rather 
cumbrous for the ordinary class-room. Normal schools and 




others provided with special rooms for hand-work will find the 
portfolio quite within the abilities of children advanced in the 
work. 

Material: (1) 70-lb. binders' board; (2) leatherette; (3) 



122 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 

lining-paper ; * (4) 4 feet of dark-colored tape; (5) a strip of 
muslin ; (6) a strip of vellum or other book-cloth. The latter 
should agree with the leatherette in color. It may be had as 
low as 25 cents a yard at bookbinders. 

From binders' board cut two rectangles, each g}4 ,f X 13". 

From the lining-paper cut two rectangles, each 10" X 

I2#". 

For the present these linings are pasted by one edge only, 
to the outside of the board (Fig. 108) and then folded over to 




F/ff. i° 8 - 



the inside. In this position the lining should fall about yi" 
short of the board, at the three open edges. 

Now connect the boards with a muslin strip, using glue. 
Leave a space of 1" between the boards. Leave about yi" at 
the ends of the muslin unglued for the present. 

* Any light-weight paper — Manilla, white, or the "lithographed" 
paper used for lining books, which see. 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 123 

Cut a strip of vellum as wide as the muslin and an inch 
longer. Glue it to that part of the muslin already glued to 
the boards, but leave the middle part free of glue. 

Fold the projecting ends of vellum inside the muslin, con- 
cealing the ends of latter. 

Glue the vellum ends down to the boards. 

Cut two rectangles of leatherette, each 10" X 14". Paste 
them on the outside of the boards, leaving %" laps at top, 
bottom, and front. 

Before applying the paste dampen the board and the inside 
of leatherette with a sponge. 

Clip away the corners and paste these laps over on the 
inside of the board. 

With a knife-point cat slits (from the outside) through 
which to pass the tapes. 

Cut the tape into %" lengths. Pass them through the 
respective slits, from the outside. About \" of tape should 
pass inside. This is to be glued down to the board in the 
direction away from the edge. 

As a last step, paste the lining smoothly down on the 
inside of the board, first damping both board and paper with 
the sponge. 

It now remains to dry the portfolio. To prevent warping, 
both the inner and outer surfaces must be dried at the same 
rate. This may be accomplished by turning the model 
alternately inside out and right side out at intervals, as often 
as any tendency to warp is seen. 



I2 4 



FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 



Otherwise the portfolio may be dried under pressure (two 
or three geographies), but this will take several days. 

A third and rapid method of drying is to use a heated 
smoothing-iron. 




**'&• '09. 



If the iron is too hot or if too much pressure is used, it will 
sear the leatherette. Place a sheet of paper or muslin between 
iron and model. Iron the inside and outside alternately until 
dry. If warping occurs, iron the convex side. 

This ironing greatly improves the model in appearance. 



PUBLICATIONS OF 

THE BAKER & TAYLOR CO., 

Publishers and Booksellers, 

33 37 EAST SEVENTEENTH ST., NEW YORK. 



FROM THE CHILD'S STANDPOINT. Studies of 
Child-nature. A Book for Parents and Teachers. By 
Florence Hull Winterburn. i2mo, cloth, with a por- 
trait of the author. $1.25. 
This book is a collection of studies of child-nature and 
child-life, written with that sympathetic insight into the 
heart of childhood for which this author is so justly noted. 

"Of more service as interpreter of children's natures than 
the formal child-study lore or easy treatises on pedagogy for 
mothers." — Literary World. 

"What we all know, but what no one ever said so well 
before. Abounds in wholesome truths." — Journal of Education. 

"A point which both parents and teachers need to have 
brought home to them." — The Independent. 

" Suggestive: present a new view of the ethical relations of 
parents and children." — The Outlook. 

" Singularly luminous studies. Child study humanized." — 
The Churchman. 

"Gives an insight into the nature of childhood." — Trained 
Motherhood. 

"Full of good sense and skillful suggestion." — The Congre- 
gaiionalist. 

" Cannot be commended too highly." — Living Church. 

"Thoroughly judicious." — Ecclesiastical Review. 

Sent, postpaid, on receipt of the price, by 

THE BAKER & TAYLOR CO., PUBLISHERS, 
3337 E. 17th St., Union Sq. North, New York. 



BAKER & TAYLOR CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 

NURSERY ETHICS. By Florence Hull Winter- 
burn. 12mo, cloth, $1.00. 

"This is one of the very best Looks that we have ever seen 
upon the general subject of the relations of parents and child- 
ren, and the duties of the former. Indeed, we should not 
scruple much about leaving out the qualification and calling 
it 'the very best'." — Public Opinion. 

"It is a word well and wisely spoken to mothers and to 
fathers. The treatment is full of feeling : it is enriched with 
deep, womanly sentiment, but is also calm and clear, and its 
suggestions have a definiteness which gives them practical 
value. We wish the little book a most successful mission." — 
Popular Science Monthly. 

"The philosophy of child-training has found in Mrs. Flor- 
ence Hull Winterburn a clear, practical, and efficient apostle. 
The nursery ethics of Mrs. Winterburn are the combined re- 
sult of years of serious study of the principles of justice as 
applied to the training of young children, and of practical ex- 
perience in carrying them out." — The Churchman. 

"The parent who can read it without benefit must either 
have attained perfection or be beyond the reach of grace." — 
New York Evening Post. 

' ' The book is written ouc of a mother's experience, and shows 
everywhere a knowledge of the best modern thought upon the 
s ub j ect . " — Cong rego tiona lis t. 

" ' Nursery Ethics ' is a book which should be in the hands 
of every parent, teacher, judge, and every other person having 
dealings with children." — Boston Ideas. 

"Mrs. Winterburn goes at her subject directly. She does 
not theorize, but treats the matter from a practical standpoint 
throughout. Her work is one that should be in the hands of 
every parent and every teacher." — Milwaukee Journal. 

" It is safe to say that if this little volume could be made a 
text- book of every young married couple, the next generation 
would be a vast improvement on any one which has preceded 
it." — Boston Herald. 

Sent, postpaid, on receipt of the price, by 

THE BAKER AND TAYLOR COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 
33-37 Ei 17th St., Union Square North, New York. 



BAKER cO TAYLOR CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



WITH THE WILD FLOWERS. From Pussy-willow 
to Thistle-down. A rural chronicle of our flower 
friends and foes, describing them under their familiar 
English names. New and revised edition. By Maud 
Going. 16mo, cloth, fully illustrated, $1.00. 

CONTENTS. 



WITH THE 
WILD FLOWERS 




BY MAUD GOING 



The Pin nt World. 

Flowers and their Visitors. 

Buds. 

Hidden Treasuries. 

Willow-pussies and Al- 
der-tassels. 

A Wreath for the May- 
queen. 

The Calla's Poor Rela- 
tions. 

Cherry-bloom and Cot- 
tonwood. 

Spring's Younger Chil- 
dren. 

Field-daisies. 



Twilight and June in a 
Garden. 

Water-side and Pond 
Flowers. 

Unbidden (iuests. 

Winged Burglars. 

Ogre-flowers. 

Orchids. 

Among the Late Wild 
Flowers. 

The Happy Autumn 
Fields. 

Seeds on their Travels. 

Foes Afield - Plants 
Poisonous to the 
Touch. 

A delightful volume giving flower facts, rather than mere 
names and classifications. It is written by a true lover of 
nature, who adds to exceptional literary feeling the rare gift 
of making instruction thoroughly enjoyable by a style at once 
clear, entertaining and imaginative. The book carries us 
through the whole season with the flowers as they make their 
appearance. It is accurate in its illustrations and text to the 
point of scientific precision, and its style and method (which 
discriminate it widely from the ordinary "botany") enhance, 
through their intrinsic attractiveness, its power to instruct. 

"A valuable and interesting little work. Much quaint 
and out-of-the-way knowledge is gathered into its pages and 
communicated with friendly simplicity. Odd facts in the 
history of plants are explained in such a winsome way that it 
is not until the reader closes the book that he realizes how 
much scientific information has been administered to him. 
Many reminders of field and forest may be found in this 
delightful little volume." — New York Tribune. 
THE BAKER AND TAYLOR COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 
33-37 E. 17th St., Union Square North, New York. 



BAKER & TAILOR CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 

MR. CHUPES AND MISS JENNY : THE LIFE STORY 
OF TWO ROBINS. By Effie Bignell. 12mo, 
cloth, $1.00. 
A charming account of the life irt captivity of two birds 
whose misfortunes made them at first the involuntary com- 
panions of humankind, and whose affection for their gentle 
guardian made them unwilling afterwards to leave her for a 
life of liberty with their own kind. All friends of the birds 
will detect in the writer of this sympathetic story a true 
lover of birds, not only from her perception of the most inter- 
esting of her pets' experiences, but also from her general 
attitude toward feathered life. The Audubon Society is sure 
to approve of her because, like its members, she reverses the 
old saying and really believes that two birds in the hand are 
worth nowhere near so much as one in the bush. 

FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT. By Walter J. 

Kenyon, State Normal School, San Francisco, Cal. 

Square 12mo, fully illustrated, $1.00. 
This is a handbook of handicraft rather than " sloyd " or 
manual training, and is intended to show little folks how to 
make useful things with the ruler, pencil and scissors. It is 
meant for children, either at home or at school, of from seven 
to eleven or twelve years of age — children who have out- 
grown the employments of the kindergarten and have yet to 
attain the growth qualifying them for the forms of handi- 
craft common in the grammar grades. The materials used 
are simple and cheap, but tough as leather and beautiful in 
color and texture. The " models " are really elementary and 
are things little folks can make, and all of them are real 
intrinsic things which can be used at home or in school. 
Many years of intimate acquaintance with children, their 
ways and their capabilities, have fitted the author for ac- 
complishing his task with discretion and efficiency. 
THE BAKER AND TAYLOR COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 

33-37 E. 17th St., Union Square North, New York. 



TV/Tutt If* M**.~~. 



